Beautician for the homeowner

Vadim Alexeev A man in a perfume shop usually feels mild confusion - ctellazhi with makeup seemed to him an alchemist laboratory. But in the wilds of automotive beauty, he focuses very well. So, all in a mood thing? so prior to our conversation about the protective equipment for the home, we will ask readers to tune into a serious mood. First, let's define the range of issues that must be considered. Thus, it is important to clarify: that we, in fact, protect, protect from what? And as with protecting what? Let's go in order. The object of protection are the interior and exterior of a country house. In the first case - expensive finishing materials and construction, and above all made of fine wood: flooring, cladding panels, interior doors, window frames, etc. Speaking of the exterior, we mean the surface of wood or stone facades, roofs and various decorative elements (especially metal), etc. What are defending? A very pertinent question, if we remember that the enemies of any building or finishing material to spare. Thus, the wood is afraid of excessive moisture, and conversely, dryness, harmful microorganisms, the scorching sun and the mechanical action. And, for example, metal rusts in contact with water there. On the last question: by what means can extend the life of your beloved home and its individual elements - we will give a detailed answer. In fact, this entire article is devoted. Of bugs and worms Almost all finishing coatings possess, in addition to the purely decorative properties, and more protective. But, to paint or varnish hold long and properly protects the wood or plaster layer from harmful environmental influences, the original painted surface to further process the purely defensive means. Take the timber. This natural material for prolonged contact with moisture can be cracked or warp (with subsequent drying). In addition, the tree was afraid of blue fungi and rot. Stain fungi grow in the tissue of the tree and paint the surface of the gray-blue, brown or almost black. Blueness does not weaken the strength of the wood, but in the subsequent color can penetrate the paint film and create a "pass" for water, which, as mentioned above, gradually makes its bad business. Rot fungi destroy the pulp, resulting in the strength of wood is significantly reduced. The impact of ultraviolet radiation also leads to the destruction of lignin - begins "plucking" of the surface layer of wood, which becomes gray and friable. To protect the wood from damage by fungi or insects are used antiseptics. You can use them to fight with almost all biological enemies of wood: mold, bacteria, algae, etc. The only exceptions are fungi, saprophytes, as antiseptics act only on some of their views. If the wood has already struck, it can save disinfectant solutions. Manufacturers of protective compounds offer solutions, different in purpose and degree of impact on pests. If the tree has a slight or moderate damage, to protect against fungus and beetle-Dry wood borers, mold, or "blue" used part of complex actions. Keep in mind that foreign technology primarily involve the processing of wood protective structures at the stage of production pieces (logs for the house, the basis for window profiles). Therefore, many imported drugs are not designed for wood surfaces that are already affected by mold and rot. To summarize. So, to finish coat of paint lay on the wooden structure is ideal, western producers recommend starting with the repair of surface pre-treatment compositions for deep antiseptic impregnation of wood (preferably alkyd binder in a solvent or in aqueous solution). Further, the intermediate primer should be used on alkyd binder, which penetrates into the pores and fill the cracks of wood. And only after that should be applied to one or two coats of weatherproof acrylic paints to ensure long-term preservation of decorative and performance properties of the coating. In addition to the antiseptic impregnation is possible (and sometimes just need to) handle the tree a special solution to make it fire. As a flame retardant, ie, substances that reduce the flammability of wood, we recommend using ammonium dihydrogen phosphate (funds that are sold in stores, may have other, adapted to the consumer, the name, so be sure to specify the presence of flame retardants and their property from the seller). Protect Although iron metal is much stronger and harder than wood, it also needs extra protection before painting. The fact is that due to the electrochemical processes occurring on metal surfaces in contact with water there, there is rust. Ways to avoid rust a lot, but the easiest and cheapest - do not touch any metal surface with water. How? It's very simple: paint a special compound. It is best to protect the metal surface primers, which contain special additives. By way of priming are divided into Phosphating (they contain phosphoric acid that forms on the surface of the metal film of soluble iron phosphate), protektiruyuschie (with zinc, which is taking the "hits" on the water itself, prevent the corruption of the original surface) and isolating - generators on the metal surface dense film that prevents penetration of moisture. Modern Priming compositions are characterized by high adhesion and is firmly retained on the surface to be painted. However, they can not boast of weathering, shock and abrasion resistance. In addition, the appearance of such coverage leaves much to be desired. Because on top of the primer must be applied to the appropriate coverage. It should be remembered that the corrosion resistance typically has just primer, and the coating is intended to maximize its life. There are "anti-rust" compositions, meant only for internal or for external works, which is necessarily informed on the packaging. Most manufacturers make universal primers that can be used both outside and inside buildings. Many companies offer two kinds of primers: for normal surfaces and problematic. Usually called the surface of castings, forgings and rolled products, rather rough for a good grip. To problem include galvanized iron, stainless steel, aluminum, copper, the surface of the metal frame suspended facades and hardware covered by an oxide protective films. Such material common ground meshes particularly well because of chemical reactions on their surfaces (eg, zinc with water is alkaline, with products which engages not just in the ground) and due to lack of surface roughness. Coat of primer applied by brush, roller or spray gun (in the latter case, the composition should be diluted with an appropriate solvent). Color of the soil should choose as close as possible to the color top coat - then his underwear layer paint is easier and faster. Protective compounds most affected by the paint, but sometimes they, in contrast, harbor paint. As an example, water-soluble acrylic lacquer, which increases humidity and durability of the painted surface. There are formulations containing a primer and paint in one bank. They can be applied directly to rust (in preparation surface is recommended to clean off her loose layer). Better safe than minerals on the stone (mineral) surface is particularly difficult to apply the first layers of plaster. Therefore, such a surface necessarily processed primers. This category of materials includes compounds having different consumer properties. For example, soil depth of penetration after application of impregnated foundation to a depth of 10 cm, gluing and reinforcing it throughout the volume. These primers are often used for very critical work: repair and decoration of the ceilings, the preparation of a thick-wall covering (stucco and tile adhesives). With such material as "bring to mind" the loose and crumbling foundation. Compositions of the deep penetration fit well on concrete and plastered surfaces, plaster, brick. By the way, many of the materials in this series contain fungicides (antifungal) additives to prevent mold. Fortifying primer on the composition of materials similar to the deep penetration, only the particles of adhesive that they contain, a larger size. Therefore, these primers are absorbed only in the surface of the base, making it more durable. Reinforcing soils are usually affixed to the painted or papered plaster, zashpatlevannyh or previously painted water-dispersion paints surfaces. In some cases you may need special alkali-resistant primer. It is used as a layer between the finishing solvent based paints (oil, alkyd) and alkali surfaces (all materials based on cement). With the direct interaction of these bases with the above coatings latter lose strength: the paint may peel off. Exceptions are acrylic water-based paints - they are not afraid of lye. Before applying any primer should zashpatlevat chips, cracks and grooves in the brick or monolithic wall. The primer protects the wall from the environment to paint her paints. In addition, the soil helps to reduce paint consumption and improve its grip. For pre-treatment of facades cottages (in front of plaster and fine finish) is also used mainly perchlorovinyl primer. They are quick-drying: temperature 18-20 ° C reach the "marketable" condition in just one hour. For domestic work perchlorovinyl primers can not be used, as, indeed, and polystyrene soils that contain toxic solvents. Lucky varnishes After applying a protective composition of the surface is usually covered with decorative, or more precisely, protective and decorative materials: paint, varnish or polish. About the colors we are quite detailed in the last issue of "ZO", so now it makes sense to stop at other types of compositions. Varnish called a solution film-forming substance in an organic solvent or water, which is used to produce transparent coatings that protect and preserve the structure of the surface to be painted. By the application of paints can be divided into four groups: hardwood and furniture, so-called "boat" and universal. On the market parquet varnishes, in turn, can be divided into three groups: single-, two-and water-based paints. One-component varnishes are sold ready to use. They are easy to use and relatively inexpensive. However, these materials contain white spirit, and therefore have a sharp odor. Two-component paints are more resistant to external influences. They form a film by a chemical reaction between two components - semi-finished lacquer and hardener - after mixing. Such compositions are also inexpensive. But also not without drawbacks: in front of "use" is necessary to mix components, and finished the composition is stored for long. Water-based paints with acrylic and akriluretanovoy basis - the most progressive. These compounds are in most cases a dispersion formed by small droplets of film-forming component, uniformly distributed over the volume of water. The water here is divided polymer particles, so that they are not "stuck" in the bank and still have not started to polymerize prematurely. The advantage of water-based paints, in addition to environmental and fire safety, is that they are virtually colorless, and therefore retain the original beauty of the wood surface. However, to apply such coatings is difficult. Their use is impossible without using special primers. In addition, water-soluble varnishes applied a large number of layers. The compositions of this type are most expensive. Compared with parquet furniture is more comfortable - she does not experience stress. Nevertheless, it should be protected from the adverse effects of high humidity and excessive dryness of the air, protect the surface from the sun's rays that can cause discoloration, stains or cracking lacquer objects. The so-called boat varnishes just have very high strength and resistance to weathering, so they are more often used for decoration of garden furniture and other wood products that are outdoors and exposed to sunlight, rain, snow, heat and cold. As far as universal varnishes, their name speaks for itself. It should be noted that some coatings can be applied not only on wood surfaces, but also on plastered or painted with water-dispersion paints the walls to give them a new decorative qualities. For example, to furnish such as "Venetian plaster".