Vladimir Mikhailov unique natural wood color, unfortunately, vulnerable and short-lived. Wetness, temperature, fungus and blue - all of which can completely destroy the charm of the first timber, and then the rest of its remarkable properties. On ways to combat this scourge and will be discussed. Our ancestors antiseptics and dryers do not know. But felled forest at certain times, rafted the rivers, and dried under the sun and wind ... Different regions have their own ways of "hardening" of wood against fungi and bark beetles, but all of them - not for our industrial age, though, because sometimes take years. Many secrets of carpentry and timber artisanal, alas, irretrievably lost. They were replaced by high technology and chemical methods of protection. But the chemistry chemistry strife. Sometimes the manufacturers of various fire retardants, bleaches, and antiseptic formulations "forget" to warn consumers that their products are not too healthy. As a result, we are proud to be used in the interior of natural wood, but do not realize that it is hopelessly poisoned by salts of heavy metals and other filth. Everything is good in moderation. To begin with, note: A good host must first avoid the conditions in which the natural enemies of wood feel at ease and confident. Among these enemies, in particular, bacteria, fungi, algae, insects that feed on either wood, or simply contribute to its destruction. To make life pests of wooden structures did not seem to honey, first of all need to observe a certain humidity conditions. Thus, in the ground part of the wooden buildings is desirable to maintain humidity below 20%. This excludes the development of mold and rot fungi. But if the interior of a country house with stove heating and ventilation, properly organized, this problem is not so acute (and thus impregnate bedroom wall "chemistry" do not have to), the precipitation, wherewith our region is rich, very quickly result in unsightly cottage, covered glittering amber fresh clapboard. However, not always true, this formula: the less moisture - the better. At constant humidity over 70% of malware flora and fauna are also largely lose their activity. Thanks to this still stand, and Venice, and some mansions along the Fontanka River. Building a house has wooden structures of biological enemies are many - to them primarily include various types of fungi and insects ... Some of them are not so dangerous. For example, fungi cause only superficial staining wood in the blue-green, blue, green, black, pink and other colors. They testify to the excessive moisture. In this case, the mold does not affect the durability of wooden structures. But the rot (caused mainly by its trutovye fungi of the class Basidiomycetes) destroys the tree. Worst enemy of the tree - white mushroom house. At first, he successfully masquerades as an ordinary mold, so that to know him only by specialists. Meanwhile, in certain circumstances, a white mushroom house is capable of a month "to eat" oak floor four centimeters thick. With regard to insects, the fear is primarily a small beetle Dry wood borers, mine timber beetle, brownie barbel. It should be noted that the surface wormholes (tunnels and holes being done in wood by insects) deep and 3 mm does not affect the mechanical properties of wood deeper - violate the integrity of the timber and the mass distribution reduces its strength. In addition, the worm can cause the defeat of sap-rot wood and cause the sapwood mushroom color. Please note that the most malicious of fungi growing in areas with stagnant air. Therefore, in order to preserve the wood, it should be aired. Boards that are stacked in piles, waiting in the wings at a construction site, must periodically shift. And the design is necessary to provide natural ventilation of all buildings and structures, including non-residential basements and attics. Then the development of the fungus will be suspended, even if it caught on yet in the storage timber. And of course, can not do without quality antiseptic. That is, they protect wooden structures from virtually all species of fungi and insects, and often even "cure" is already affected by pests wall. Strategy and tactics of modern wood preservatives taken fall into two main groups. The first group includes antiseptic impregnation is a solution of salts or other substances - fungicide, algaecide and combination products. These drugs require further processing of the surface (eg, varnish) to avoid leaching, evaporation of antiseptic. The second group includes antiseptic substance forming on the wood surface protective film. Additional processing of wood surface is required. Production of both groups produced as water based and solvent-based. Despite the presence of antiseptics on the market "high readiness" (forming a protective film immediately after application), many experts still recommend the use of the system, phased protection. In this case, we first applied an antiseptic and fire-resistant compounds (described below), then the surface is processed by an external weatherproof compound, such as varnish. With this scheme, each caused by the composition penetrates into the timber to the maximum possible depth. The outer lacquer layer, in addition to the aesthetic function, creates a protective barrier of atmospheric moisture, preventing the leaching of the composition, and does not evaporate biocides. In addition to antiseptics intended for normal operating conditions, the shops can be found as compounds for particularly "critical" sections of wooden surfaces (have a direct impact of air and soil water in contact with the ground, etc.). If the drug is intended for "heavy" operating conditions, the manufacturer must indicate this on the label (trudnovymyvaemy antiseptic). And another important observation. Each antiseptic effective against wood-specific diseases. For example, some biocides excellent job with the blue, good with household fungus and the mediocre from the mold. And others, on the contrary, completely destroying mold, but they can not cope with other biological pests. Universal antiseptic, to successfully combat all tree diseases at the same time, today, unfortunately, does not exist. So try as you can describe in detail the sales consultants their problems, and then he will advise exactly the structure which best protect your home from pests. Liquid fire Apart from mold, rot and insects, wooden houses are afraid of fire. Therefore, since you have decided to donate his cottage longevity, it makes sense at the same time take care and protect it from fire. Today, for these purposes, as a rule, use special impregnation - flame retardants that contain flame retardants (ammonium phosphate, ammonium chloride, etc.), substances that enhance the action of the main moderator, as well as stabilizers to limit consumption of the moderator. Impregnating the surface of wood, fire retardants protect it from fire. And if the fire still appeared, inhibit the spread of flames. The mechanism of action of fire infiltration can be described as follows. Under the influence of flame retardant can be decomposed into gaseous and solid products. Gaseous withdraw from wood heat (cool it), and prevent combustion, and solid - form a continuous film on the surface, blocking the access of oxygen required to maintain the fire. When selecting the composition need to pay attention to which group the protective effect it belongs. For example, flame retardants group II only hinder fire, and I group - provide a strong protection of wood in all stages of fire development. However, please note that any, even the best quality, infiltration can not be a panacea for the fire. The use of flame retardants - is just a preventive measure of accidental fire (due to nezatushennoy cigarettes circuit electrical wires, etc.) and the rapid spread of flames. Very popular now retardants - flame retardants based on aqueous solutions of salts of boric, phosphoric or silicic acid. As a result of their use of natural texture and color of the wood remained virtually unchanged, and the feeling of living in a wooden house is preserved. But the increased fire resistance of wood: wood does not ignite, even in case of an open flame, such as if the kitchen suddenly ignited gas. Meanwhile, virtually any "fire" of the time gradually loses its protective properties. Therefore, every few years to carry out reprocessing of wooden surfaces (the frequency of such updating manufacturer must indicate on the packaging). It is recommended to use the same flame retardant. But this ideal. If the same flame retardant is not found, should be wondering the compatibility of the new with the old. It is best to ask about the seller or call the phone number provided by the manufacturer on the packaging of goods. Subtleties of a few words about the rules of application of drugs intended to protect wood from pests and fire. To create high-quality protection work surface should be pre-cleaned or laundered. Resinous areas usually scrape away or, if not helped, treated with solvent. Mold was removed with a scraper or wire brush and if necessary, decolorized. Previously used for this purpose means "White", now on sale a lot of special bleach for wood. Just do not forget after you apply them thoroughly rinse the surface with water and dried. Impregnation can be applied by roller, brush or spray. Distributed over the surface of the need along the wood fibers, causing a continuous layer, with an increase in consumption in places where the expected constant contact with moisture and (or) solar radiation. For example, the ends of lumber impregnated to saturation. Recommended to be applied to wood surfaces for at least two layers of impregnation - at the expense of the increased longevity of coatings, each layer makes the coating more glossy. To update the surface coating only one layer. How and when working with paint, the processing of large surfaces are advised to mix the necessary amount of infiltration in the same dish in order to ensure uniformity of tone. Wood species vary in their resistance to rot, as well as different impregnated with protective solutions. For persistent species include pine, fir, ash, oak and larch core. And aspen, alder, birch core - rot quickly, and therefore need special protection. Pine, aspen, cedar or alder are impregnated with antiseptics is easy, but to infiltrate fir, larch, birch core, oak, beech, have to try. Not recommended to treat wooden surfaces in cold weather, in too hot or windy weather, as well as in direct sunlight. The fact that such weather conditions lead to a reduction in the depth of infiltration. In some cases, surface coatings may even be gas bubbles. Be aware that the final color depends on the quality, texture and porosity of the wood surface (for example, when processing the same composition and nestroganoy planed wood, usually obtained by different shades). It is clear that to use protective compounds to be smart, not to nullify all of their useful properties. In particular, antiseptics need to trot out before the went blue or board on the front porch had rotted away completely. With regard to flame retardants, then saving them is not necessary - it's not a decorative coating and impregnation. In addition, these compounds are effective only when processing clean wood. When applying them over any other coatings protective properties are dramatically reduced.
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