Repair doors and covers

Boxes, trims, parapet boards (sills), air vents, the ebb of time and improper operation of doors and window frames unstuck, crack, warping, rot, etc. In this case, they are not repairable. Doors and covers are manufactured in such a way that the porch they had leaks in widths from 2 to 2.5 mm. It is necessary for further staining. Internal doors never hang close to the floor. Between the door and the floor should be a clearance of at least 10 mm to the door you could put a track or carpet and it would not hurt to open and close doors. Inside the house or apartment is no threshold. It can only be chopped wooden houses. In other houses the lower bar raised above the floor level of 10-15 mm only at the door. For the repair of doors and covers are widely used screws of different sizes. They can be flat, Oval or round head. Their length from 7 to 120 mm, thickness from 1,6 to 10 mm, head diameter of 3 mm to 20 mm. To wrap the screws in slotting head slots (grooves) of different width and depth, which depends on the size of screws. Flat head screws wrap the wood flush with the surface detail. These screws are mainly used for attaching hinges, mortise locks, and some details. Screws Oval and round head can screw tight rim locks, handles, latches and other devices in which the head will not interfere with their work. Should pay attention to the threads of screws (Fig. 1). Acute thread cut into the wood, cutting its fibers, and thus firmly holds the screw. With a blunt screw thread just crushes fibers and thus ill-kept in a timber. At the same time weaken the loop, begin to swing or move away. In addition, the screws are poorly kept under wrap them along the grain of the wood, ie, in the end. Hinges come in different sizes. The loop consists of two cards with the joints in which the inserted rod. Each card has two or more holes for screws. Razzenkovka holes should be such that the screw cap vvertyvaemogo was either on par with the face cards (flush), or slightly buried in it, but in any case not performed because of the map plane. Map can consist of one or two plates (double much stronger). Hinges come with items made up at the hinge rod, screwed to the rod embedded in a single card (removable), and pull-out rod (Fig. 2). Pintle hinges and hinges with removable rods are used for hanging doors and covers. Loop with items made up the hinge pins are used for air vents, transoms, etc. Particularly useful hinges with removable pins, so they make it possible to remove the door or doors are not binding vyvertyvaya screws. They are indispensable where, for whatever reason, can not lift the door or flap during their withdrawal. Loop is selected by size doors or doors, transoms, or vents, the thickness of bars or gorbylkov and bars obvjaza. Prirezka loops. Installing hinges on the place called prirezkoy as a loop has to cut timber on the thickness of the card. If the card loops will act because of the plane of the box, binding or, conversely, will be drowned in it, the door pane or transom will not be tightly closed, and with a strong push on the door, window and so the loop can either bend or even pull out the screws. If the loops protruding slightly from the plane of a quarter or a door, it's easy to fix, cut wood in the nest under the hinges. If nests were deeper and hinges heavily buried in them, then the loop can be placed cardboard, construction paper, etc. In this case, the screws have to unscrew and remove the loop. Strengthening of the boxes. More likely to be strengthened box exterior door of the house or apartment. It generally refers to buildings of brick and similar materials. In wooden buildings do not have to, in case they need to sufficiently secure with nails. In stone, brick, concrete walls of the box doors are attached to the process of filling the doorway. Box set so that it was strictly vertical and horizontal. To do this, use wedges with which raise one or the other side of the box. After this box fastened at three points on each side: one point at a distance of 1 m from the floor and two others at a distance of 30 cm from the top and bottom of the box. To do this in the wall (against the fourth box) drill hole depth of not less than 50 mm and a dense wood jams clog there. Set box and pierce tube nails. Nail heads is recommended to sink into the thick wood box not less than 2 mm. The nails used are thick, and even better to use steel pins with a diameter of 8-10 mm. To this end, the box must be pre-drilled holes for them to 2-3 mm smaller in diameter than pins used. If the box were strengthened slightly builders, they must be further strengthened. To do this, drill a mechanical or an electric drill with pobeditovym tip diameter of 8-10 mm hole in the wall of a minimum depth of 50 mm. (Drilling is a quarter of the box.) Measure the depth of the drilled holes, cut the same length as the steel pin, hammer him so that he was drowned in the thick wood of 2-3 mm. In strengthening the box on the hinge side is recommended to drill at least three openings in the quarter boxes. In these holes clog with steel pins so that they protrude from the plane of a quarter of a 10-15 mm. Against these holes are drilled in the door opening depth of 20 mm and a diameter pins to freely enter into these holes and do not interfere with closing of the door. It's safe strengthens not only the box, but the door, as issued by the ends of the pin will enter the hole in the door (Fig. 3). If the box is made of thick bars, and there is a long drill bit, then proceed as follows. Drill holes only in the box so that the wall remained tags. Then remove the box (if possible) and drilling a hole in the wall. Then the box are put in place and perpetuated. But this is time-consuming option, better to buy a drill with a carbide tip and extend it by navarivaniya additional rod. The door frame should fit to enter the door opening in the wall, but often between it and the wall is a fairly large gap through which the heat leaves (Fig. 4). It must be carefully repaired. For this, first detach trim, measure the width of the gaps between the frame and the wall, they prepare wooden slats desired thickness and clog their slots. Instead of wooden slats, you can use a solution better than quick-setting, with fibrous additives: plaster, sheetrock, cement. After drying the solution casings are put in place. Strengthen the rail can be to strengthen the box and after slicing rack of such length that they pass between the pins. Reiki can sink slightly deeper plane of the box and the wall, and the remaining space is filled with plaster or other solution. It should be borne in mind that if the gap is not sealed, solution, or rails, the box is hanging on nails or pins, and quickly shaken. Thus, the sealing gap is highly desirable not only from the standpoint of insulation. Repair of doors. It happens that the doors are beginning to work to open and close. This is especially noticeable in wet weather: wood absorbs much moisture, swell, increasing in size. (In dry weather in winter time the door is working properly.) If, in this case, the wet weather to perform pristrozhku, then dry weather in between the door and a quarter of the box formed by a large gap. As a result, the door will be tightly closed, and through this crack in the cold season of the premises will go away heat. Therefore, if the door was opened with difficulty, you first need to inspect the hinges and check that all screws are tightened to a loop. If they are weak - they wrap. If the screws and then do not hold the door, then they should be replaced with longer ones. It is desirable that the thickness of the screw and head size were the same. Otherwise, with thicker screws have to drill out the holes in the hinges. There are other ways (Fig. 5,6). If between the box (assuming that it is fine) there is a gap or it is easy to perform against the loop, then there is inserted a piece of board desired thickness, but not thinner than 25 mm. (Facilities should be made of hardwood - birch, maple, oak, beech, hornbeam.) Then the loop is fixed longer screws that would be fully engaged in a piece of board and firmly holding the loop. When this is impossible, and the box is thick enough, we can against the loops on the side of the box (ie, fourth), cut in the form of dovetail section of wood thickness of 30-40 mm and lengths of 200-250 mm. In a cut of the box to insert a piece of hardwood and fasten it with screws (see Figure 6).. Then in the set pieces, cut slots for hinges and lock them. You can do so: to turn out two or three outer screws, on the side, stepping back from the edge of the box on the length of the smooth part of the screw, drill a hole with a diameter of 15-20 mm and a depth of one and a half times the width of the quarter (see Figure 6).. In these holes pierce doubles - round pins of hard wood. Then the noose put in place, using the same screws, if they do not dull thread. In addition to the method has a number of others, such as: the holes for screws inserted wooden wedges, and they wrap the screws. However, the screws wrap along the grain of the wood, and therefore do not hold firmly. Can proceed as follows: mix the sawdust with epoxy resin and fill the hole they have been cleared. Then pristavit loop, fix them immediately screws and leave for a day without hanging the door. There are recommendations to fill the holes with metal filings and vvertyvat there screws, but it does not always produce good results. Better, and such filings mixed with epoxy resin. If the door is settled and strong third quarter on lower box, which is sometimes from excessive abrasion loops podstrozhku doors should not be performed. You must use wedges to raise the door so that she was firmly against the top of the box. Then, copper, brass or steel wire 2-3 mm thick manufactured hooks. The shape of hooks - a semicircle of such diameter that they are free to put on the rods (Fig. 7). This hook is passed between the rod and a card, then pressed the short end of the rod, then slip the long end to the curved side, cut off the excess and cover all the grease. Doing the same on the second loop. Then, the wedges are removed and the door is lowered into place. As you can see, this is done without removing the door. May first bend of the ring or make them vytachivaniem, but then put them on will only be removing the door. Due to lubrication door will close easily and quietly. With frequent changes of locks door sticks in the ground frame heavily worn. They need to strengthen the insert in the form of dovetail of dry wood. Insert can be of any length. By inserting the form of cut wood in the bar of the door, put in place an insert, first dry and then glued with an additional fastening wooden pins or screws. In addition, dovetail, it can be inset in direct spikes (Fig. 8). With the destruction of the bottom of the door leaf is removed, completely removed the bar, produce exactly the same and put it on dry place or better on the adhesive, securing the pins in the joints. If a door at the bottom of a baseboard (wide board), then put both him because he keeps the door from the rapid destruction. Panels subjected to repair, if they are cracked and the cracks in them, through which heat leaves the premises. If the width of the crack is not more than 2 mm, it can cover up the oil filler, pre-clearing it from dust and dirt and proolifiv. Cracks wider than specified, it is best to plug the insertion of dry wood. If the panel is fixed layouts, they shoot from all sides, take out the panels, cleaned of dust and dirt, are made of dry wood to insert the desired shape and thickness, and glue it to the panel. After the glue has dried perform zastrozhku panels and put in place. If the panel is inserted into the slots in cakes obvjaza, then disassemble the door should not be. In this case it is necessary to produce a composite insertion of two parts, which are inserted one by one, and be sure to glue the joints with a panel inserts (Fig. 9). After the glue has dried produce sweep. I recall that the panel will never be put in the slots vraspor: between the panel and the grooves must be a gap along the length and width of not less than 4-5 mm. Obvjaza door consists of a thick and relatively wide bars. However, they are subject to wear and require repair. Individual pieces obvjaza repaired by installing new bars. Old they are connected directly spine. Most often, eyelets for studs perform in the old sticks obvjaza. Put bars on the glue dried, staple pins and produce zastrozhku (Fig. 10). If the bars obvjaza porch were severely damaged, then worn parts are cut down, produce box the right size and shape and connect it with a vertical bar of a direct single-spine and horizontal - double straight spine (Fig. 11). For the strength of the joints staple pins. It happens: a loop embedded in a single plane and a quarter, the screws are recessed in razzenkovannye holes, but the door is still springy. This may be because the door is very tight quarters adjacent to the box and rests on it. Four in this case podstragivayut with one or both sides, applying the necessary boats and Additionally gathered instrument (see Fig. 14). Additionally gathered without a single tool places have cut by a chisel. Chisel should be broad and, of course, hot. Remove the timber from the hinges. The thickness of the removable timber 1,5-2 mm. It happens that the part embedded into the interior of the bar bolt at dvuhpolnyh doors or doors with biscuit "(a single field, and narrow) is split off the wood. A wood cut, produce box, put it in the first dry and then, after trying them on waterproof glue with additional attachments of nails or pins. Nail heads recommended utaplivat into the thick of wood to a depth of not less than 3-5 mm. Panel doors often become unstuck and warping. In this case they must be removed from its hinges, to knock out pins, disassemble, clean corner joints from dirt and dust, cook vajmy to compress the door after smearing glue. Adhesive plaster corner joints, connecting rods obvjaza each other, insert panels, if they are selected slots in the grip frame press, put the pins on the glue dried and then put into place. If between the studs and eyelets are significant leaks, then they insert a thin solid sliced ??veneer (always with glue). The drops of glue dries cut chisel. More than simple repairs such door is to put in the corner joints with one or two sides of steel angles, preferably large, fixing them with screws whose length must be less than the thickness of the bars obvjaza by 5-7 mm (Fig. 12). Raised elbows, or the whole door painted with oil paint. Setting lock. Locks are locks, and overhead. Easier to establish consignment lock. Mortice lock fastened to the vertical bar of a door at a height of 90-110 cm from the floor. Nest box under lock-Cutting chisel or chisel. You can first drill a hole in height box, then select the wood chisel or a chisel. Forend lock should be flush with the edge or the plane of the bar door. Inserting the lock into the slot, around the straps encircle sharpened pencil or an awl, leaving the risks to which the cut timber on the thickness of the plate. Castle again inserted into the slot and check the density of the adjoining plank. Then the lock is removed, measure the distance from kljucheviny to straps, as well as from the bottom of the nest to the top kljucheviny and transfer these dimensions to the door. Hole for kljucheviny hollow or drilled first, and then hollow. This hole should be strictly against kljucheviny lock to a key inserted into it freely. After this locking screw tight screws and inspect the work of the lock key. More difficult to add on the strike plate. Even experienced woodworkers spend on this operation a long time. Therefore, you should do so. Against the deadbolt lock slot cut down the depth of 5 mm in size slightly larger bolt. Jack obscure flush a quarter of soft clay, clay and turn the key. Then the door tightly cover and turn the key. Bar pops up and leaves a mark on the smeared spot.