There are several methods of working wood. To complete each of them requires a certain set of tools and possession of a certain set of knowledge. Therefore, in this paper we describe how to perform certain types of joinery and carpentry, as well as reveal some secrets of professional skill. Let's start with the first, relatively simple operations. For example, tesaniya wood, which is only used in the processing of ridges, plates and quarters. This method of treatment is to separate the bark from solid wood. The main tool used in this paper is an ax. All of the axes are directed from top to bottom around the trunk. In this case, the ax blade should not penetrate deep into the bark, so as not to damage the wood itself. As you work together with the bark should chop and protruding knots, thereby maximizing prepare wood for further processing. A next step is sawing wood. In mechanical sawing logs and boards can get plates of varying degrees of quality. With the help of this technique can be obtained from the board to make certain parts. Meanwhile, the second way of cutting can be performed on the workbench at home. Depending on how much fat is selected solid wood, will need to choose one or the other saw. Depending on how the workpiece is mounted on a workbench, depends used when working sawmill reception. If you fix the workpiece on the bench horizontally and the saw while at right angles relative to the most part, then such a technique is called horizontal. In this case, place cut should be a few go beyond the surface of the bench, so that when the work does not damage the board, and the procedure itself will be much easier. Feature of cross-cutting is that the saw cut is not parallel to the grain and across them. This increases the likelihood of splits as to leave some, and with the saw off. Well, if cleavage occurred at the saw off a piece, later you can easily remove the excess wood from the desired part. But if cleavage occurred precisely where the need to have a flat smooth surface, you will either have to restore the wood, cut out a new part. Avoid such troubles may help fine hacksaw with a "mouse teeth". If you want to saw off a board or bar at right angles or at an angle of 45 degrees, and already have at hand miter box, you only need to exactly put the board in the gutter press to far-away side and smooth, without moving the workpiece, cut off a piece of waste. When sawing is done a few moves hacksaw blade on the already marked line, thereby to strengthen the blade in a wood. With further work you only need to adjust the motion hacksaw, if the canvas will try to circumvent those caught twig or a rough patch. All work is limited to monitoring the uniformity of penetration of the teeth throughout the site. Physical effort at correct sawing should not be. But you can "put pressure" on the saw, but not the whole body, because only a small uniform pressure on the hacksaw during smooth movements will ensure a smooth drink. During this operation, the workpiece is best placed so as to saw off a piece on the left side. Upon completion of cutting loose the left hand is easier to keep a piece of useless and will not let him fall to his feet. All sawing motion when the details are made vrazmah, that is completely holding hacksaw blade cuts. When using power saws, all operations performed in the same way as you would with a manual hacksaw. Planing the wood is in the lining of the surface after sawing. Depending on the planing stages of execution used by different types of planers. prepared to furnish the item should be placed on the workbench and fix it. First of all, the professionals start with a rough alignment, which use the jack-plane. In this case, all movements are directed across the grain, but not along them, as it is possible to remove too much wood. If the route there are jack-plane cross-grained, which complicate treatment, then they need to be emphasized to remove them. Otherwise, this place wood can break away, and the bar will become unfit for further work. After the surface treatment of small parts it needs to clean up the jack-plane single-plane, and then double. If you work with long details, such as boards, you'd better use a jointer or polufuganok. Promotion planing on the surface should be directed along the grain, not against them. Just so you can make the surface flat and smooth. When planing the ends of boards and sticks made a few movements planers from one edge to the center and then a few steps from the other edge to the center. This avoids the formation of splits and flakes on the ends. Drilling in wood producing for breaching various openings. These openings may be through and blind, deep and shallow, wide and narrow. Before you start drilling, you must select the appropriate size drill bit, awl then put the timber mark to fix the bit into the chuck and drill bit set exactly to the mark. If you need to drill a blind hole, then as you move the bit in solid wood, should gradually diminish the pressure on the drill - so you can avoid spalling of wood and the formation of through holes. When chiselling wood before you start to be good to fix the bar or workpiece in a vise. Then apply the marking on the wood surface first, a simple hard pencil and then with a knife. If you want to do sufficiently deep and large hole, you first choose the wood chisel, and then proceed to sweep the surface of a chisel. Another small remark. Getting Started, attention should be given the choice of wood near the edges, which are located across the direction of the fibers. Deaf large holes are made as follows: first choose the blade bit with mallets, and then tilt it slightly in the opposite direction, with a blunted on the canvas, and raise the blade up. Podlomavayut wood and some pieces are separated from the array. Then back out 2-3 mm from the hole and repeat the procedure. For finishing the edges of deepening always deviate from it by 1-2 mm, and put a chamfer bit to it. If you raise the blade chisel side, where blunted, then this podomnetsya unstripped wood surface of the canvas. If you need to make a hole, then the sample timber produced on both sides at the same time, gradually reducing the intermediate layer. Gouge smooth out the edges in a straight narrow chisel. Cutting is always satisfied, or chisel, or knife-jamb. Most often, the sample timber made chisels that allow you to make accurate holes and the deepening of various shapes and depths. Knife-cannot be only partially replaced by a tool that does not exist. Chisels are used just like a chisel, only the impact of the timber is made without a hammer. Cutting wood is as follows: in: set markup blade chisel beveled inward deepening of the future. Then embedded deep into the wood chisel to 2-3 mm. After the first cut set chisel 1-2 mm in the direction of the alleged deep sockets and do the same incision. That will have a small seizure. Gradually moving into the depth and grabbing more and more wood in one go, you can make the necessary holes. In the middle of deepening the incision can be made to a depth of 5-6 mm, but near the edges, so as not to damage the party, only 2-3 mm, not more. In order to accomplish a hole, from the edges make a slit through the entire depth. If necessary, trim can be done in several stages. After the sample timber must smooth out the bottom and sides of a narrow groove formed straight or semicircular chisel. Cycler timber - the type of processing that enables the knife as smoothly clean up the wood surface, where it is not the strength to make chisels or planes. In this case, the process is more like a scrape. Cyclic motion directed at himself, and the knife set bevel up. Once completed, all the work is only to align and clean up the treated surface after planing. Surface used for grinding emery cloth, which is an abrasive coating on paper, cloth or cardboard base. Depending on the type of abrasive grains and there are several types of skin. On the inner surface of the roll, note the letters and figures. The letters refer to types used in emery cloth abrasives, and the numbers - the degree of grinding abrasive. The lower the number on the inner side, the finer the grain deposited on the surface of skin. If there is the letter "C", it means that we have used ground glass. «KB» in this case stands for quartz, and "CD" - the silicon. This is one of the most frequently occurring abrasives. Coarse, coarse sandpaper is used for a rough surface finish, and for final polishing is better to take a fine-grained, which on the surface without leaving traces of the grains. In order that the fingers are not tired of the right to hold a hide, take a small stick and wrapped his sandpaper. In addition, this bar allows you to clean up the surface evenly without the formation of hillocks and valleys. Evenness of the surface also depends on the strength of pressure on the bar. The stronger the push, the greater the likelihood of an uneven surface. Of great importance is that the direction will be resurfacing. If the sand across the direction of the fibers, the risks will be more apparent than when sanding in the direction of fiber or more diagonally. Glue for wood without glue virtually impossible to do when connecting components. When gluing wood to use glue, which must be either transparent, or light does not change the color of the wood, not too quick to learn, easy to remove it surplus, but inside the joint, he would contribute to the preservation of wood from rotting and the penetration of microorganisms inside. Furthermore, most adhesives has water-repellent properties. All adhesives can be divided into natural and synthetic. Depending on what ingredients are used in the preparation of natural adhesives, they are of animal, vegetable and mineral. The manufacture of synthetic adhesives are used only artificial compounds. Any adhesive that may be required to work, consists of several components: self adhesive, solvent, which supports a certain consistency composition, the hardener, which helps him to grasp and connect parts, and antiseptic, preservative-treated surfaces against insects, microorganisms and various substances destroying the wood structure. Among the natural glues most commonly used bone, prepared on the basis of bone meal. However, such adhesives are poorly responsive to moisture, and therefore not suitable if you want to do something in the bath or sauna. Casein glues are based on milk protein. They are very durable glue surface, but as a solvent is used here alkalis, which stains the wood. Clay K-17 is suitable for clean bonding large surfaces, it forms a thin film and did not stiffen. PVA glue or polyvinyl acetate dispersion, to quickly grasp and therefore requires quickness in work. He is a white liquid which after drying becomes a transparent film. This adhesive is the most versatile for bonding parts. Carpenter's glue can be used multiple times. To do this, just need to heat the glue on the fire. And the carpenter, and bone glues are sold in granules or chips that are in the home become sticky mass. If you buy the glue in the form of chips or pellets, it can be immediately pour into hot water, stirring constantly, bring it on low heat until dissolved. If you buy the glue in the form of tiles, then before you put it in water, we must crush the glue, then pour in a bowl with cold water and leave for the day to as long as it does not completely swell. And only then shift the pieces in another bowl and start the procedure itself adhesive. Ready adhesive has to flow down from the sticks, which is used for stirring, it should be thick and resemble in consistence fat sour cream. To prepare the glue needed to get a special device - kleyankoy. It can be replaced by two conventional pans, and one of them should be slightly less than that could easily handles attached to the sides of the other. In a smaller pan pour water and poured glue, and in another - poured water to cooked glue not burned. If, during the preparation of the adhesive foam is formed, it must be periodically removed. Most glues are not able to stand long and the next day at room temperature, becoming the smell of rot. To glue stayed several days with his cooking, you can add a few grams of phenol the rate of 1 g per 1 liter of glue. Now prepared adhesive can be applied to the surface details. This will require a bristle brush or linden bark, a piece of a pre-soak. In any case, adhesive is applied to the surface with a thin layer. Merge with the mind connecting parts with adhesives in two ways: by sewing or gluing. Bonding is used in various compounds on the tongue and on the conditions. Bonding is used only in the manufacture of plywood, and veneer finish surface, etc. Glued parts in two ways: squeezing surface clamps or priterev surface to each other after the application of glue on them. Lapping band mostly subtle details, which, after a brief seizure customize to each other and leave until the glue. This method of adhesive bonding of parts should take place quickly and clearly, so before embarking on its implementation, prepare everything necessary for the operation: clamps, gaskets, belts, bearings, belts, and the surface of substrate used, which should always be clean. In case you accidentally soiled it with dirty hands or kapnuli oil, wipe the place of contamination with acetone or alcohol. When bonding pads are used to maximize uniform distribution of effort at compression. They also protect the surface from the formation of dents in the clip clamps. Strip is always made slightly larger substrate used. Most often made of strips of sheets of plywood. In addition, to avoid sticking to the surfaces of strips, you will need to enclose another sheet of paper between the gasket and the surface. When gluing method of compression must be careful to install terminals happened displacement surfaces, which then will be impossible to recover. The seam turned out good, solid, work best in a room where the temperature does not drop below 20 degrees. Also, the adhesive should be applied with a thin even layer, and the glue should not be too runny. But a thick layer also is not allowed - it cracked when dry. Also, do not try to polish the bonding surfaces - the plane should be a little rough, which will provide a reliable connection. If you want to glue together multiple parts, do not try to glue all at once - in the lower layers of glue initial set, but will not be evenly distributed from the surface of the waves get. To prevent this, divide the items into several parts, glue plank pieces together, and then, and parts. Glue together the best of levels, for example, in one sitting - legs of the chairs in the other - the seat. If you have to glue together a complicated structure consisting of many nodes, you must first connect all the parts without glue, are adjusted, if something appears, and then apply the adhesive. Obvious defects, bonding persists, and dismantle already glued construction without damaging it is also impossible. Once the glue is applied to the construction sites, it is necessary to put her under pressure and withstand a certain time, the glue is completely dried out and grabbed. If you used carpenter's glue, then remove the item from the press can only after days. PVA glue takes less time - only 4-5 hours.
There are several methods of working wood. To complete each of them requires a certain set of tools and possession of a certain set of knowledge. Therefore, in this paper we describe how to perform certain types of joinery and carpentry, as well as reveal some secrets of professional skill. Let's start with the first, relatively simple operations. For example, tesaniya wood, which is only used in the processing of ridges, plates and quarters. This method of treatment is to separate the bark from solid wood. The main tool used in this paper is an ax. All of the axes are directed from top to bottom around the trunk. In this case, the ax blade should not penetrate deep into the bark, so as not to damage the wood itself. As you work together with the bark should chop and protruding knots, thereby maximizing prepare wood for further processing. A next step is sawing wood. In mechanical sawing logs and boards can get plates of varying degrees of quality. With the help of this technique can be obtained from the board to make certain parts. Meanwhile, the second way of cutting can be performed on the workbench at home. Depending on how much fat is selected solid wood, will need to choose one or the other saw. Depending on how the workpiece is mounted on a workbench, depends used when working sawmill reception. If you fix the workpiece on the bench horizontally and the saw while at right angles relative to the most part, then such a technique is called horizontal. In this case, place cut should be a few go beyond the surface of the bench, so that when the work does not damage the board, and the procedure itself will be much easier. Feature of cross-cutting is that the saw cut is not parallel to the grain and across them. This increases the likelihood of splits as to leave some, and with the saw off. Well, if cleavage occurred at the saw off a piece, later you can easily remove the excess wood from the desired part. But if cleavage occurred precisely where the need to have a flat smooth surface, you will either have to restore the wood, cut out a new part. Avoid such troubles may help fine hacksaw with a "mouse teeth". If you want to saw off a board or bar at right angles or at an angle of 45 degrees, and already have at hand miter box, you only need to exactly put the board in the gutter press to far-away side and smooth, without moving the workpiece, cut off a piece of waste. When sawing is done a few moves hacksaw blade on the already marked line, thereby to strengthen the blade in a wood. With further work you only need to adjust the motion hacksaw, if the canvas will try to circumvent those caught twig or a rough patch. All work is limited to monitoring the uniformity of penetration of the teeth throughout the site. Physical effort at correct sawing should not be. But you can "put pressure" on the saw, but not the whole body, because only a small uniform pressure on the hacksaw during smooth movements will ensure a smooth drink. During this operation, the workpiece is best placed so as to saw off a piece on the left side. Upon completion of cutting loose the left hand is easier to keep a piece of useless and will not let him fall to his feet. All sawing motion when the details are made vrazmah, that is completely holding hacksaw blade cuts. When using power saws, all operations performed in the same way as you would with a manual hacksaw. Planing the wood is in the lining of the surface after sawing. Depending on the planing stages of execution used by different types of planers. prepared to furnish the item should be placed on the workbench and fix it. First of all, the professionals start with a rough alignment, which use the jack-plane. In this case, all movements are directed across the grain, but not along them, as it is possible to remove too much wood. If the route there are jack-plane cross-grained, which complicate treatment, then they need to be emphasized to remove them. Otherwise, this place wood can break away, and the bar will become unfit for further work. After the surface treatment of small parts it needs to clean up the jack-plane single-plane, and then double. If you work with long details, such as boards, you'd better use a jointer or polufuganok. Promotion planing on the surface should be directed along the grain, not against them. Just so you can make the surface flat and smooth. When planing the ends of boards and sticks made a few movements planers from one edge to the center and then a few steps from the other edge to the center. This avoids the formation of splits and flakes on the ends. Drilling in wood producing for breaching various openings. These openings may be through and blind, deep and shallow, wide and narrow. Before you start drilling, you must select the appropriate size drill bit, awl then put the timber mark to fix the bit into the chuck and drill bit set exactly to the mark. If you need to drill a blind hole, then as you move the bit in solid wood, should gradually diminish the pressure on the drill - so you can avoid spalling of wood and the formation of through holes. When chiselling wood before you start to be good to fix the bar or workpiece in a vise. Then apply the marking on the wood surface first, a simple hard pencil and then with a knife. If you want to do sufficiently deep and large hole, you first choose the wood chisel, and then proceed to sweep the surface of a chisel. Another small remark. Getting Started, attention should be given the choice of wood near the edges, which are located across the direction of the fibers. Deaf large holes are made as follows: first choose the blade bit with mallets, and then tilt it slightly in the opposite direction, with a blunted on the canvas, and raise the blade up. Podlomavayut wood and some pieces are separated from the array. Then back out 2-3 mm from the hole and repeat the procedure. For finishing the edges of deepening always deviate from it by 1-2 mm, and put a chamfer bit to it. If you raise the blade chisel side, where blunted, then this podomnetsya unstripped wood surface of the canvas. If you need to make a hole, then the sample timber produced on both sides at the same time, gradually reducing the intermediate layer. Gouge smooth out the edges in a straight narrow chisel. Cutting is always satisfied, or chisel, or knife-jamb. Most often, the sample timber made chisels that allow you to make accurate holes and the deepening of various shapes and depths. Knife-cannot be only partially replaced by a tool that does not exist. Chisels are used just like a chisel, only the impact of the timber is made without a hammer. Cutting wood is as follows: in: set markup blade chisel beveled inward deepening of the future. Then embedded deep into the wood chisel to 2-3 mm. After the first cut set chisel 1-2 mm in the direction of the alleged deep sockets and do the same incision. That will have a small seizure. Gradually moving into the depth and grabbing more and more wood in one go, you can make the necessary holes. In the middle of deepening the incision can be made to a depth of 5-6 mm, but near the edges, so as not to damage the party, only 2-3 mm, not more. In order to accomplish a hole, from the edges make a slit through the entire depth. If necessary, trim can be done in several stages. After the sample timber must smooth out the bottom and sides of a narrow groove formed straight or semicircular chisel. Cycler timber - the type of processing that enables the knife as smoothly clean up the wood surface, where it is not the strength to make chisels or planes. In this case, the process is more like a scrape. Cyclic motion directed at himself, and the knife set bevel up. Once completed, all the work is only to align and clean up the treated surface after planing. Surface used for grinding emery cloth, which is an abrasive coating on paper, cloth or cardboard base. Depending on the type of abrasive grains and there are several types of skin. On the inner surface of the roll, note the letters and figures. The letters refer to types used in emery cloth abrasives, and the numbers - the degree of grinding abrasive. The lower the number on the inner side, the finer the grain deposited on the surface of skin. If there is the letter "C", it means that we have used ground glass. «KB» in this case stands for quartz, and "CD" - the silicon. This is one of the most frequently occurring abrasives. Coarse, coarse sandpaper is used for a rough surface finish, and for final polishing is better to take a fine-grained, which on the surface without leaving traces of the grains. In order that the fingers are not tired of the right to hold a hide, take a small stick and wrapped his sandpaper. In addition, this bar allows you to clean up the surface evenly without the formation of hillocks and valleys. Evenness of the surface also depends on the strength of pressure on the bar. The stronger the push, the greater the likelihood of an uneven surface. Of great importance is that the direction will be resurfacing. If the sand across the direction of the fibers, the risks will be more apparent than when sanding in the direction of fiber or more diagonally. Glue for wood without glue virtually impossible to do when connecting components. When gluing wood to use glue, which must be either transparent, or light does not change the color of the wood, not too quick to learn, easy to remove it surplus, but inside the joint, he would contribute to the preservation of wood from rotting and the penetration of microorganisms inside. Furthermore, most adhesives has water-repellent properties. All adhesives can be divided into natural and synthetic. Depending on what ingredients are used in the preparation of natural adhesives, they are of animal, vegetable and mineral. The manufacture of synthetic adhesives are used only artificial compounds. Any adhesive that may be required to work, consists of several components: self adhesive, solvent, which supports a certain consistency composition, the hardener, which helps him to grasp and connect parts, and antiseptic, preservative-treated surfaces against insects, microorganisms and various substances destroying the wood structure. Among the natural glues most commonly used bone, prepared on the basis of bone meal. However, such adhesives are poorly responsive to moisture, and therefore not suitable if you want to do something in the bath or sauna. Casein glues are based on milk protein. They are very durable glue surface, but as a solvent is used here alkalis, which stains the wood. Clay K-17 is suitable for clean bonding large surfaces, it forms a thin film and did not stiffen. PVA glue or polyvinyl acetate dispersion, to quickly grasp and therefore requires quickness in work. He is a white liquid which after drying becomes a transparent film. This adhesive is the most versatile for bonding parts. Carpenter's glue can be used multiple times. To do this, just need to heat the glue on the fire. And the carpenter, and bone glues are sold in granules or chips that are in the home become sticky mass. If you buy the glue in the form of chips or pellets, it can be immediately pour into hot water, stirring constantly, bring it on low heat until dissolved. If you buy the glue in the form of tiles, then before you put it in water, we must crush the glue, then pour in a bowl with cold water and leave for the day to as long as it does not completely swell. And only then shift the pieces in another bowl and start the procedure itself adhesive. Ready adhesive has to flow down from the sticks, which is used for stirring, it should be thick and resemble in consistence fat sour cream. To prepare the glue needed to get a special device - kleyankoy. It can be replaced by two conventional pans, and one of them should be slightly less than that could easily handles attached to the sides of the other. In a smaller pan pour water and poured glue, and in another - poured water to cooked glue not burned. If, during the preparation of the adhesive foam is formed, it must be periodically removed. Most glues are not able to stand long and the next day at room temperature, becoming the smell of rot. To glue stayed several days with his cooking, you can add a few grams of phenol the rate of 1 g per 1 liter of glue. Now prepared adhesive can be applied to the surface details. This will require a bristle brush or linden bark, a piece of a pre-soak. In any case, adhesive is applied to the surface with a thin layer. Merge with the mind connecting parts with adhesives in two ways: by sewing or gluing. Bonding is used in various compounds on the tongue and on the conditions. Bonding is used only in the manufacture of plywood, and veneer finish surface, etc. Glued parts in two ways: squeezing surface clamps or priterev surface to each other after the application of glue on them. Lapping band mostly subtle details, which, after a brief seizure customize to each other and leave until the glue. This method of adhesive bonding of parts should take place quickly and clearly, so before embarking on its implementation, prepare everything necessary for the operation: clamps, gaskets, belts, bearings, belts, and the surface of substrate used, which should always be clean. In case you accidentally soiled it with dirty hands or kapnuli oil, wipe the place of contamination with acetone or alcohol. When bonding pads are used to maximize uniform distribution of effort at compression. They also protect the surface from the formation of dents in the clip clamps. Strip is always made slightly larger substrate used. Most often made of strips of sheets of plywood. In addition, to avoid sticking to the surfaces of strips, you will need to enclose another sheet of paper between the gasket and the surface. When gluing method of compression must be careful to install terminals happened displacement surfaces, which then will be impossible to recover. The seam turned out good, solid, work best in a room where the temperature does not drop below 20 degrees. Also, the adhesive should be applied with a thin even layer, and the glue should not be too runny. But a thick layer also is not allowed - it cracked when dry. Also, do not try to polish the bonding surfaces - the plane should be a little rough, which will provide a reliable connection. If you want to glue together multiple parts, do not try to glue all at once - in the lower layers of glue initial set, but will not be evenly distributed from the surface of the waves get. To prevent this, divide the items into several parts, glue plank pieces together, and then, and parts. Glue together the best of levels, for example, in one sitting - legs of the chairs in the other - the seat. If you have to glue together a complicated structure consisting of many nodes, you must first connect all the parts without glue, are adjusted, if something appears, and then apply the adhesive. Obvious defects, bonding persists, and dismantle already glued construction without damaging it is also impossible. Once the glue is applied to the construction sites, it is necessary to put her under pressure and withstand a certain time, the glue is completely dried out and grabbed. If you used carpenter's glue, then remove the item from the press can only after days. PVA glue takes less time - only 4-5 hours. But this does not mean that the glue is completely dry and ready for further design work. After the required time has elapsed, we should weaken the clips, check whether all the way to whether the shifts of layers, and put the design into a press for another day, the glue has dried completely. Applications for adults Bonding is different from bonding that is carried out only by facing works. This is a fairly simple way to simulate arrays of fine wood, using only the veneer and a wooden base. In addition, this method will help in the manufacture of mosaics, which is perfectly decorate the cover of any table, fold closet, nightstand in the bedroom, etc. While there used fine wood veneers, and the work itself requires care and precision of the eye, this work may perform even the man who has never had dealings with the tree. It looks more like applique, paper and cardboard. But here are a few features, which should always remember and respect at work. For example, glue veneer only need a very smooth surface, a little rough, but with no visible nicks. If I may say so, the base surface should be velvet. Veneer must stick across the grain of the basics, but not along, otherwise this may cause cracks, which only spoil the surface. They arise from the different shrinkage of veneer and the base. If you are using an expensive veneer and glued to particle board, make sure you glued intermediate layer of a cheap veneer or cotton. Using veneer burl or wood with a high cross-grained, pick up the basis of carefully dried wood, then to not cracks. For sticking veneer on small surfaces using PVA glue, and at large - carpenter's glue. This will help make gluing more qualitative. As well as gluing, pasting is in two ways: zapressovaniem and lapping. And that is another way in the following order. First applied to the base layer of the adhesive, then placing her veneer of pure iron sukonkoy, thereby removing from under him all the air bubbles. After that, for better connection from the top veneer is moistened sponge with warm water. After 1-2 hours, when the glue begins to thicken, lapping veneer of iron in the direction of the fibers, taking care not to lift up the edge. To this end, all movements should be directed to the edges or diagonal to it. Before we leave the design to full bonding, laid a sheet of white paper on the seams. Now the whole structure can be left as they are, and can be put under the press, on top of the veneer Place paper, then seal and then hold down clamps. As the press for detail with an uneven, curved surface can be used sieved and heated sand. Placed on the surface of a sheet of paper, which protects the veneer from pollution, and then the canvas bag filled with sand. The more sand, the more pressure will be put. But it should not be excessive, lest there be strain veneer. The optimum pressure will be provided a layer of sand at 9-11 cm Released surface of such media is possible only after the final cooling of the sand that veneer is not "gone bubbles. Now let's talk about the shortcomings that may arise when applied veneer on the foundation. First of all, it is the formation of so-called "finches" - places where the adhesive has been insufficient and there was the formation of air cushions. Detect such areas will help the most simple prostukivanie - empty seats will be muffled sound, under the blows. "Siskin" should make an incision with a knife-jamb, then gently lift one edge and a pipette or syringe and needle with a large clearance to pour into the void a few drops of glue. After that, cloth adhesive is distributed within the former "Chizha" and iron the seam, which then need to put paper strip. Then this place must have steam irons, heated to a temperature of 100-110 degrees. Air bubbles formed due to uneven grinding, often have a convex shape. Such a bubble is also necessary to cut, soak in a little veneer around the bubble, then pour a few drops of glue from a pipette or syringe and get used a warm iron over the paper. Some parts of the veneer when applied can be shifted. Thus, the edges appear millimeters excess veneer. Only after the full consolidation of glue they will have to align. Depending on the size of the protruding edges using a knife-jamb, or plane. Planer is suitable only for relatively small ledge - about 1 mm. Greater overhang removed with a knife-jamb. We wish you every success!
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