Vitaly Lviv Parquet - a very time-consuming and demanding finishing operations. Matter how carefully did not fit parquet, achieve an ideal surface is virtually impossible. Therefore, for a final floor leveling carried out a range of works. First, consider the materials used for flooring. Hardwood materials include flooring itself, as well as materials in some way mimic the parquet. Parquet - wood material in the form of plates made of hard wood. Basically was spread parquet from oak, beech, elm, ash, maple, elm, beech, birch. Plate on the side edges are ridges and grooves. Usually located on the crest of one long and one short edge, and the other two slots are made. Much less common flooring of the two types of plates - plates only on some slots, while others only ridges. Ridges and grooves provide a tight connection of individual plates in a single whole - a great beauty and environmentally friendly floor. The thicker the parquet plate, the longer and better is parquet and so, naturally, it is more expensive. When people talk about "real" hardwood floor, it usually refers to two of its kind - piece and mosaic. Laying the "real" hardwood floor - a very time-consuming and demanding finishing operations. Matter how carefully did not fit parquet, achieve an ideal surface is virtually impossible. Therefore, for a final floor leveling the complex of works aimed at achieving the desired characteristics of parquet flooring. Depending on its condition and your wishes can be carried out following operations: a preliminary sanding parquet - Made Belt sander to remove old paint, dirt, removal of small imperfections, scratches and warping wood sanding parquet - finally smooths the surface and eliminates the traces of sanding - waviness, shagreen and rising pile of wood. Sanding parquet flooring is done in several stages with a set of grinding equipment, equipped with dust collectors. With each successive stage of grain abrasives decreases. Number of polishing depends on the quality of the base (tie), and laid the plywood. Puttying flooring - special sealing paste (putty) gaps between the hardwood strips or modules. Usually done after sanding parquet - parquet primer - causing priming compositions, impregnating the surface layer of wood, which protects it from exposure to chemicals and mechanical stress, eliminate bonding edges of parquet strips. Prepares surface for application of a parquet lacquer. Varnished parquet, application of oils and wax sealant - is carried out to give the surface desired aesthetic properties and wear resistance of parquet flooring. Number of layers of the coating is determined by its physical and chemical characteristics. Porozapolnenie parquet - wood pores filled by special structures (gels) to avoid falling through the lacquer coating and make the parquet floor of the optical effect of occupancy. Interlayer polished parquet - removes the rising pile of wood when applied layers of lacquer coating. No matter how beautiful modern floor coverings, parquet looks better, more solid, richer. Unless, of course, it serviceable, polished or covered with fresh paint. Over time, however, in some places there are gaps, and the individual staves (planks) crack or crack. Replacement of flooring - a thing very expensive. And you all to visit more often thought: Do not cover this mess carpet or linoleum? Do not hurry - all fixable. The more so because hardwood dowel in a while treads through any cover! Hammering the gap begin with slits. Narrow (1,5 mm) gap can be easily repaired a special floorboard filler. You must select a filler, it is suitable for the tree, from which it is made your hardwood floor. Followed by a clean gap thin steel wire left inside to remove dust and debris vacuuming. In any case, do not use a screwdriver to clean - will get even wider gap between the studs on the surface and garbage disposal in their depths. After that, using a spatula or putty knife fill the gap, try as best as possible leveled it and remove the excess from the surface. After drying putty sandpaper to sand the surface, the loop or fragment of window glass and covered with lacquer or polish. Wider gap putty useless - cracked. Upon taking a closer look reveals that the gap is small (up to a depth of 5-7 mm) due to dowel the next riveting. Remove it with a chisel, and then smooth out the resulting groove. Cut from similar or other appropriate wood lath and covered the woodwork or other adhesive, and drive in its slot. As the wooden slats can be used for drawing the line. One-meter line can get 30-40 bars. Followed by sanding and varnishing. Replacing cracked or broken rivets - a process more complex, but quite able to "average" man. First, you need to remove the damaged parketinu. For this parketinu need a chisel or a chisel to split longitudinally into several pieces and take them out, starting from the middle. Then it is desirable to remove the adhesive base, which was glued riveted to the base (most likely a bitumastic). If the base is chipped, then they should be repaired its corresponding material. Best of all bitumen mastic to buy, but you can do it yourself by mixing 1 kg of bitumen with 200 g of asbestos as a filler. You can use silicone wax (liquid nails) or a special parquet glue - in short, everything in its composition does not have water, but glues wood to concrete, wood or other basis. The next stage - the preparation and fitting of a new riveting. New riveting, of course, must be from the same wood as your flooring. Using, planes, cut the comb in a new riveting and attach it to the installation site. If the crest of an old neighbor riveting obstructs or does not enter into the groove of the new, cut him too. When riveting, finally coming (better if tight), it can be installed. Bituminous mastic should be heated to 170-190 ° C. New riveting fit directly onto the hot mastic or adhesive filled. If you replaced several staves, then they are pre-fastened (crest - the groove). If the rivets are placed on a wooden base, under which we have to put cardboard or heavy paper - in the future, this will help prevent squeaks. After a riveting mounted, put on her cargo, after removing the tread mastic (glue). When the glue has dried foundation (clutch) you can begin processing riveting. New riveting, of course, will be allocated, because it does not tsiklevalas. Therefore, it planers plane down to the desired level and tsiklyuyut. Before parquet lacquer coating, it all tsiklyuyut in order to avoid spots of different shades. After sanding and floor polishing cloth. You can do this with their hands and feet (hellish work!), But better - sander. Yes and services tsiklevschikov not too expensive. Sanding parquet flooring sanded and re-varnish on average once every five years (frequency depends on the intensity of use). It is not necessary to wait until the varnish protretsya to timber, as the bare wood areas darker, starting to rot. Small defects can clean up the sandpaper, putty and varnish, however, repaired areas will be a different color from the old hardwood floor - it is better to update the lacquer coating completely. Remove old nail professional tape, and definitively treated with a surface angle (for the hard to reach places under the radiator in the corners) and flat grinders - do it by hand long and hard. In addition, there are grinders milling polish remover. The fundamental difference: the device is equipped with metal blades (cutters), which removes the top layer of lacquer tree. Therefore, after the surface treatment of Fraser still needs polishing. Do you have a choice: to restore the flooring yourself or entrust the work of a master parquet. In either case, all the consumables (abrasive paper, plaster, paint) must be purchased separately. Skirting boards prior to sanding better off to sander could come up against a wall and remove the old varnish without a trace. Puttying parquet After sanding scratches and chipped close up special putty-colored wood and sanded floor renovated areas of sandpaper. Varnish is applied after the final drying putty (1-5 hours). Specialty fillers for wood (fillers) are made of water-based (acrylic) or on the basis of nitrorastvoriteley. Water-based fillers have virtually no odor, dries quickly, but inferior filler of the second type of strength. Putty is applied very thinly (no more than 1 mm), and if you want to cause another, but only after the complete drying of the first. Putty and water based paints are not recommended for certain hardwoods (oak, chestnut, cedar, etc.) as well as the varnish can tread a bluish-whitish spots. Alternative Filler - special wax for hardwood floor restoration: do not shrink, translucent, but cost significantly more. In addition, waxes can not be combined with polyurethane varnish, or lacquer coating exfoliates. Parquet parquet lacquers cover special high durability, water-based (acrylic) or solvent-based synthetic (polyurethane, alkyd). Typically, water paints dry fast, have no smell, do not change the color of the wood and diluted with plain water, however, and their price higher. Lacquered parquet lacquer is applied in at least three layers. The more layers, the stronger finish. After drying each layer (except the final) for better grip further, manually smooth out bumps. At first brush are all difficult places, near walls, corners, and then the lacquer is applied to the surface velor roller, preferably along the wood fibers. It should be borne in mind that when stained parquet lacquers acid catalysed required to ensure good ventilation of indoor air, as well as the ability to apply protective breathing. Caution: When using lacquer is forbidden to smoke and enjoy the open fire. Is strictly forbidden to pour paint down the drain!
No comments:
Post a Comment